LG ranges, wall ovens and cooktops use a numeric fault scheme, an F followed by one or two digits, which has nothing in common with the two-letter codes on LG laundry and dishwashers. LG's range error code page lists the codes in use, from F1 up through the F60s, and arranges them in three columns for electric ranges, radiant cooktops and gas ranges. The same number does not necessarily carry the same meaning in each column, and a code looked up in the wrong column sends you to the wrong part.
Find the Right Column
Start from the model number on the plate, which on most LG ranges is on the frame behind the oven door or inside the storage drawer opening. LG's cooking model numbers carry the fuel in their letters: an E in the prefix, as in LRE or LSE, is electric, a G, as in LRG or LSG, is gas, and an I, as in LSIL, is induction. That tells you which column applies. Read the entry there and nowhere else.
The Kinds of Fault the List Describes
Across all three columns LG's explanations fall into a small number of families. Sensor faults: the oven temperature sensor is reading open, shorted or out of range. Touch-panel faults: LG describes some codes as metal objects or water in contact with the touch pads, which happens when a pan is set on a glass control area or the panel is cleaned while the range is on. Communication and display faults between the boards. Door-lock faults during or after self-clean. And a low-voltage fault when the supply to the range sags. The number identifies which family and which component; your model's column gives the specifics.
Owner Steps by Family
For a touch-panel code, turn the range off, wipe the control area dry with a soft cloth, remove anything resting on it and wait a few minutes before trying again. For a low-voltage code, check whether lights dimmed or other appliances faltered at the same time; the fault is usually the house supply or a breaker, and one pole of the range's two-pole breaker can trip on its own, so switch it fully off and on. For a door-lock code after self-clean, wait for the oven to cool completely; the lock releases on its own and forcing the door damages the latch. For any code, one reset is reasonable: switch the range off at its breaker, wait a few minutes and switch it back on. If the code returns, the reset has done its job by confirming the fault.
What the Reset Cannot Fix
A sensor code that comes back is a failed temperature sensor or a wiring fault to it. The sensor sits inside the oven cavity at the top rear, wired through the back of the range to the control board, and it is replaced with the range disconnected from power at the breaker and pulled away from the wall, on a gas model with the gas shutoff valve closed as well before the range moves. Board and relay faults are diagnosed the same way. Those are visits.
Not Every Display Is a Fault
HS on a cooktop means a surface is still hot, and LG states it is not an error code. A flashing clock after a power cut is asking to be set. A code that appears only when a particular burner or oven mode is used is worth noting as a pattern.
Booking It
Say the exact code, whether it appears at power-on, during baking or during self-clean, whether the range is gas or electric, and the model number. Book an LG range repair and leave the range switched off at the breaker if the code involves the door lock or a sensor, so the oven is not run against a control that cannot read it.